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Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
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Bequia
has long been a favorite of yachtspeople, Isolated enough to remain
relatively unspoiled, yet lively enough to be stimulating and
entertaining, it provides a blend of the old and new that many find
perfect, It is well connected with St. Vincent and the other Grenadines
both by the new airport and by the cheaper and more traditional ferries.
The Admiral makes four trips on weekdays: the first ferry normally leaves
Bequia at 0630 and the last returns at 1900. Some yachtspeople leave their
boats anchored in Bequia and take a ferry over to visit St. Vincent. Check
the free Caribbean Compass newspaper or the tourist office behind the
main dock for the latest ferry schedule, The traditional sailing schooner
Friendship Rose, which served as the Bequia ferry for many years, has now
been refitted as a charter boat.
Bequia
is an island of sailors and boats. Linked to the outside world mainly by
the sea, the old traditions still go on. Boats are built on the beach in
the shade of palm trees, Everything from little two bow’ fishing boats
to grand schooners are built by eye, using only simple hand tools. A big
launching is always a festive occasion, with rum flowing freely, music
playing and hundreds of brightly dressed people helping to roll the boat
down the beach into the sea. Bequians travel all over the world on cargo
vessels and quite a few have ended up owning their own. Some are intrepid
fishermen who venture all over the Grenadines in little open boats.
The island used to be an active whaling station, and though the
tradition is flow dying out, Bequians still make an occasional foray
during the whaling season, between February and April. At this time of
year humpback whales leave their northern feeding grounds and head south
to mate and bear young.
Few people are left in Bequia with the skills necessary to hunt them a
daring feat in an open sailing boat, using hand thrown harpoons. On the
rare occasions that they make a kill, the hunters tow the whale to Petit
Nevis for butchering.
Bequians are a proud
people, descendants of settlers who came from North America on whaling
boats, from farms in Scotland, from French freebooters and from Africa.
Bequia’s main harbor is
Admiralty Bay. There is a harbor on the south coast called Friendship
Bay and a daytime anchorage at Petit Nevis. |
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Mayreau
is a one-road, twocar island,
rimmed with pristine beaches and affording spectacular views from up on
the hill. Most islanders are happy to see you and it is well worth
exploring on foot. Visit both the village and the windward beaches.
SALT
WHISTLE BAY
This
beautiful bay has a sweeping half moon beach, and Salt Whistle Bay Club is
tucked away behind it. The resort is so well hidden in the trees
that people who sail in the bay often question whether it is really
there.
Enter right in the middle of the bay as there are reefs to the north and
south. The northern reef is about six feet deep, and not usually much of a
problem. The southern reef is dangerous; both wind and swells will help
drive the inattentive navigator hard onto the coral. Boats often come to
grief here, so take care. The holding in the bay is good in sand if you
avoid the weed patches. If there is a northerly swell, anchor bow and
stern to cut the roll.
Ashore
Salt
Whistle Bay Club has a whimsical woodland atmosphere; the unique dining
area is set in the open among the trees and each table is built of stone
with its own thatched roof. You can be sure of a top quality meal here
with a set three-course dinner with five choices of fish or meat dishes.
Fish and lobster are nearly always on the menu and popular meat dishes
include rack of lamb, pork tenderloin, prime US steaks and Cornish game
hens. Lunch is a Ia carte, with soups, sandwiches, salads and local
dishes. For a change from the boat, start the day ashore with one oi their
full breakfasts.
There
is also a little boutique and beach bar. Manager Undine Potter speaks
German.
The
Tobago Cays
are
a group of small deserted islands protected from the sea by Horseshoe
Reef. The water and
reef colors are a kaleidoscope of gold, brown, blue, turquoise and green.
There are small sand beaches and clear water. On cloudless nights the
stars ate cast across the sky like wedding
confetti thrown in an excessive gesture of bonhomie. Even squalls can be
dramatically beautiful as they approach from afar. The anchorage is,
however, open to the full force of the ocean winds, which are occasionally
strong. The
approach to the islands is helped by black and white day markers. Petit
Rameau and Petit Bateau look like one island for most of the approach.
It is important to avoid cutting corners lest you land on a coral head.
You can anchor just west of Petit Rameau, in the cut between Petit Rameau
land Petit Bateau, or to the south of Baradel. There are strong currents
in the cut anchorage, so bow and stern anchoring is necessary.
When heading south out of the Gays it is safest to pass round the lee of
Mayreau, though the Gays do have a southern channel that is okay as an
exit for the experienced
when the light is good. Avoid using this southern route as an entrance as
it is hard to find and many charter yachts have gone aground in the
attempt.
Regulation
Tobago
Cays is a national park. Park wardens will soon patrolling
and yachts will he charged, all fees going to the ark. This is badly
needed to protect this beautiful spot. Please help keep it wonderful.
Fishing is not allowed, nor are jet or water skis. Use the dinghy
moorings, do not anchor your dinghy on the coral. Do not give your garbage
to youths for a fee despite protestations to the contrary, they have been
dumping it on the windward side of Baradel. If you have a beach barbecue
make sure you remove all your debris, including the charcoal. If you use a
local to do a barbecue for you, return the next morning to make sure it
has been cleaned up properly. The record of these barbecue vendors to
date has not always been good and the apres barbecue beach sometimes
looks like a tip.
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Canouan
is an island of bumpy hills, spectacular views and exquisite water colors.
Hikers will find hidden beaches. There are a few hundred inhabitants, two
major hotels and the vast new Canouan Resort Development in the northern
part of Canouan.
Rameau Bay is a pleasant spot far from the village. You may have to try a
couple of times to get the anchor well dug in, and the wind shifts around,
so two anchors are advisable. Corhay is a small anchorage hut one of the
most protected on the island. It is sometimes used for bringing materials
and equipment in for the development, so it is occasionally noisy. At
other times it is great. If you anchor off the landing dock you may have
to move if cargo arrives.
Charlestown Bay is the main anchorage and the entrance is marked by red
and green beacons on either side. Pass between
them.
Tamarind Bay Resort put down a few free moorings which arc looked after by
Marcus. Marcus also has some of his own to rent. If you want to know
whether a free one is available call Tamarind Beach Hotel on VHF: 16. You
can anchor anywhere in the bay except for the area close to the Tamarind
Bay Resort Beach, This anchorage is pleasant, hut northeasterly winds
with northerly swells can make it uncomfortable, and rarely, in extreme
conditions, untenable. The wind tends to get held up in the hills and
then shoots down from the north in intense gusts. There is a new large
ferry dock off the beach, a good new dinghy dock off the Tamarind Beach
Hotel and a small wooden dock in the southern part of the hay. Strange
currents in the bay tend to deposit anything thrown overboard on the
beach, so please do not even throw banana skins or food scraps over in
this bay. (If necessary, take them out in the dinghy to well beyond the
navigation markers).
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